
Lifestyle | Fashion | London Fashion Week
From the LFW catwalk to your wardrobe
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Did you spy a fleet of glossy black Mercedes zipping across town this weekend? Spy a well-dressed person crossing a road nonchalantly, eyes scanning for street-style photographers? Sense a palpable, fashionable shift in the air? It could only be London Fashion Week, darlings.
And spring/summer 27 was a corker, with the return of McQueen (which is set to stay showing here for the foreseeable future, according to CEO Gianfranco D’Attis) and Mulberry alongside a high-profile M&S debut and reliably brilliant offerings from Burberry, Erdem, Simone Rocha et al.
An armada of impeccably dressed celebrities were out in force — if you saw Jonathan Bailey, Florence Welch or Emma Corrin, that’s why — alongside Mayor Lord Khan and Justine Simons, deputy mayor for culture and the creative industries. “London has always been a city that thrives on innovation and experimentation,” Simons told us. “I often say if you want to know what’s coming next, come to London.
LFW is a highlight of the cultural calendar; it generates real dynamism and buzz, not to mention a serious economic boost.” But what does all of it actually mean for our wardrobes? Now that the shows are over and the egos have dispersed, we’ve got the answers. Behold five standout trends from the SS27 catwalks that you can wear right now.
Five fabulous Fashion week picks
LFW may be over, but a new season is only just beginning. Dip a toe in a trend or two with these best buys.
Cos purple cashmere jumper: £199, cos.com
Max&Co leather pumps: £260, maxandco.com
: £605, jwanderson.com
: £1,495, mulberry.com
Zimmerman jacket: £1,575, zimmerman.com
All military everything
Beaten-up Napoleonic jackets of the Bobby Gillespie, Kate Moss variety have by now been passionately adopted by a new set of London’s coolest kids — among them Gillespie and Moss juniors and their peers — and designers great and small lined up to offer their updated takes this week. A prominent bet came from Burberry, which showed on Monday evening at Chelsea College of Arts. There, oversized corded shoulder epaulettes were stitched onto gabardine bomber jackets, bringing with them a whiff of indie sleaze.
Seek out similar on Vinted — or in Camden. At Labrum, a muted green military jacket came with further epaulettes finished in long gold bullion fringe, while Mithridate opened with a string of jackets nodding to ceremonial officers’ tunics. Find original versions at Cecil Court’s London Medal Company. And rising star Oscar Ouyang cut his own military field jackets in icy satins, finished with metallic cords and tassels. If you haven’t yet invested, it is not too late.
Bring out your baywaters
Welcome back, Mulberry. A hyped return came on Sunday afternoon at Westminster’s Queen Elizabeth II Centre, as the heritage label rejoined the showing schedule with Christopher Kane at its helm; much of the audience clutched the former It bag in a blazing show of support. On the runway, Kane took the Bayswater as his starting point, translating its angular construction into leather-panelled coats, skirts and dresses and its postman’s lock into belts and footwear. Backstage, he spoke of his desire to mix the city, town and country — so your battered bag is social currency wherever you’re living.
Purple reign
First there was tomato red, then there was butter yellow — but the next shade coming to monopolise your algorithm is purple, in many different iterations. It popped up all over the place during LFW. At Agro Studio’s show, held at Collins Music Hall, models in dazzling indigo shone like Quality Street wrappers. Simone Rocha offered a characteristically feminine take, with the perfect lilac shirt embellished with elaborate arm cuffs and a voluminous poplin dress in a paler purple. It has already infiltrated the high street too, from a draped maxi dress at Cos to brushed cashmere at & Other Stories and a glossy silk shirt coming soon to WNU.
If you’re sceptical, dip a toe in the trend by tying a purple knit around your shoulders, or maybe trying a pair of Swedish Stockings’ lacy tights. Whatever you do, wear it now before the shade inevitably slips into ubiquity.
An ecru shoe or two
It now almost goes without saying that every shoe you’ll see at LFW will have a square or pointed toe. Rounded shapes were still absent during the SS27 proceedings, but there was another trend emerging: shades of cream, chalky white and palest beige. Some of the best examples could be seen at Ronan McKenzie’s Selasi show, which took place on Monday in the surprisingly elegant surroundings of a garage on Highgate Road. One standout feature was the influx of box-fresh brogues, mid-calf boots and glossy slingbacks, all in shades of ecru.
These were also on the agenda at Talia Byre’s show, for which the designer collaborated with Topshop on footwear. The result was nostalgic and triumphantly wearable: backless brogues and wedge-heel boots that could be folded down and styled in various ways. Creating styles women can wear every day was key for Byre — which shouldn’t sound groundbreaking but does after a week dominated by punishing heels that are uncomfortable to watch, let alone wear. The full Byre x Topshop line-up will be revealed later this autumn.
Sheer brilliance
Sheer or “naked” dresses used to be reserved for exhibitionist and/or headline-hungry celebrities on the red carpet. Now, they’re pretty much the prevailing design among high street collections. All well and good if you want to bare all, but this LFW also presented a more grown-up alternative: sophisticated sheer panelling. Erdem’s gossamer tulle numbers were either so heavily embellished that they ceased to be sheer, or they juxtaposed translucency with normcore grey knitwear. Meanwhile, Patrick McDowell’s show presented an elegant alternative with sheer ruched gowns and panelling that revealed vibrant florals.