All roads lead to Rome, they say. That certainly felt true when I last stood here, on the steps of St Peter’s Basilica, having hiked all the way from Canterbury. But this time I’ll be walking away from the Italian capital.
Having followed 2,000km of the Via Francigena – a quieter cousin of Spain’s Camino de Santiago – two years ago, I’ve returned with my wife, Jess, to experience 200km of the Via Francigena nel Sud (VFS).
This official extension to the pilgrimage leads south from Rome to the heel of Italy, finishing at the Basilica Santuario di Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae in Santa Maria di Leuca, Puglia, the traditional “end of land” for pilgrims heading east.
“The horizon, not the tomb” is how Giuseppe Pucci compares the VFS to Spain’s enormously popular Camino – suggesting pilgrims are drawn onward by the landscape, not the single shrine destination.
I presume, as vice chair of the Gruppo dei Dodici (“group of 12”), the volunteer organisation promoting the route, he would want to emulate its success. “No,” he insists. He tells us to expect warmer encounters with locals and places less shaped by tourism into standardised “stage sets”.

How to be more grateful for daily life in five easy steps
The world feels like a difficult place at the moment, and it can feel very hard sometimes to find things to be thankful for; when we are overwhelmed, we have less capacity to notice and reflect on the good things. Yet, ironically, proactively cultivating gratitude is one of the things that can actually help us feel less stressed.
NHS GP dR RADHA

The science
Research has shown that feeling or expressing thanks can actually alter our brain.
- The balance of neurotransmitters change; more serotonin and dopamine (feel good chemicals) are produced.
- This can be long lasting if we make gratitude a regular habit.
- We also get a decrease in our cortisol (stress hormone) levels which helps lower anxiety.
- Being grateful can strengthen the nerve pathways which triggers positive emotion.
How can we build gratitude?

Change your words
Instead of seeing something as a problem, try to see the opportunities within it.
Our brains are very receptive and what we read or write can alter our emotional system.


Express it
This will not only make you feel good, but you will also get a positive response from others.
How can we build gratitude?
Notice more
Throughout your day, try to notice all the things that are going well; has someone opened a door for you, or smiled?


The basics
By being thankful for the small things every day, we are far more likely to be and stay healthy so that we can enjoy them.
What to do
Gratitude can lead to feelings of optimism, lower our blood pressure, and improve sleep quality.
- Write down what potential good aspects there are to the things you don’t feel like doing, or even what could be worse about it.
- Spend a few minutes writing down three things that you are looking forward to that day, or the good things that have happened to you that day.
- Say thank you to yourself for the things you have achieved, or managed to get through and changed that day.
Sales of battery
electric vehicles hit a record high last year.

Starts at £22,995 for the smaller battery
Available with either a 40kWh battery or a larger 52kWh pack, that offers almost 255 miles, the latest, retro-inspired Renault 5 is both a joy to behold and a hoot to drive.
The interior has been lavished with a level of detail that’s typically reserved for more expensive cars.

A champion of EV efficiency

It offers a remarkable 491 mile range on a single charge from the 85kWh battery.
It is a technological masterclass inside with the ability to option screens that span the entire width of the dashboard, including an optional display for the front passenger.
Priced from £37,400

It’s a lot of money to part with, but this is arguably all the car you will ever need.
The £89,000 Macan is a premium SUV that somehow manages to blend Porsche’s reputation for dynamics and sporty driving with everyday practicality.
The 95kWh batteries can go from 10 to 80 per cent in as little as 21 minutes from the fastest public charging outlets.
With the business class-style six seat configuration costing a staggering £76,995, it is by far the most expensive Kia ever made, but it backs up its financial demands with a suite of genuinely useful and impressive onboard technology.


It’s fast, goes a long way between stops and charges relatively quickly but the interior is bland, the onboard technology is infuriating and the experience is devoid of emotion.
All of its gadgetry can’t disguise the fact that performance is weak, even for a typically zippy EV, the ride is fussy at slower speeds and it’s not in the least bit enjoyable to drive on a country road.

- While good value (prices start at £17,935) for the 200-mile max range, there are more interesting options from Hyundai, Citroen and Renault for similar money.

The kitchen gadgets under £25

Victorinox paring knife
It’s comfortable to hold, with a point sharp enough for scoring pastry.
ProCook cast iron pan
For unbeatable searing and heat-retention, cast iron is the top choice.


Tesco chopping board
Priced at just £22, I’ve yet to find another board that matches it for sheer value and quality.
The kitchen gadgets under £25
Pyrex jug
It is the perfect vessel for blending smooth sauces, melting butter, or warming stock. It won’t stain like plastic and the red measurements never fade.


Salter scales
“I’ve had my slim little set of Salter Disc Scales for over a decade, and I’m delighted to see they are still made to exactly the same reliable design today.”
Microplane grater
It uses photo-etched stainless steel teeth that stay razor-sharp for a decade, something the lookalike copycats simply can’t match.
Braun hand-held blender
It’s an essential for everything from making velvety soup to getting the lumps out of white sauce.
Bodum cafetiere
As well as delivering great results, cafetieres are easy to clean and there’s no ongoing filter paper costs or pod recycling to deal with.
The kitchen gadgets under £25
Oxo peeler
What truly sets it apart is the chunky, rubberised handle that absorbs pressure and stays completely non-slip, even if your hands are wet. It is inexpensive and incredibly durable.


Falcon pie dish
Made by fusing porcelain onto heavy-gauge steel for smooth durability, it is dishwasher, freezer, hob, air-fryer and oven-safe.
The golden rules for a happy, secure relationship
Psychiatrist and neuroscientist Dr Amir Levine, author of bestselling book , explains why we behave the way we do in love.

Golden rules for happy relationships
Start with your own behaviours
The foundation of a secure, connected life is being what I call CARRP: that means being consistent, available, responsive, reliable and predictable. All of these qualities can be enacted in small gestures every day.


Express your needs
People need consistency and connection to feel safe. This is not, ‘You hurt my feelings by never replying to me’, it’s more ‘this is the kind of contact that helps me feel secure’.
Golden rules for happy relationships

The appendix ‘inflammation’ rule
If a relationship repeatedly inflames your nervous system, you need to disengage and deprioritise it.
Lean on community
You don’t need hundreds of friends. You need people and places that regularly remind you that you belong.


Stop blaming childhood
Humans are much more complicated than: ‘this happened to you, therefore you are doomed to be anxious’.

Reach for a
secure script
When something unsettles you in a relationship, your first reaction is not always the most accurate one.
If you’re anxious, your brain may jump very quickly to: ‘this is the beginning of the end’. If you’re avoidant, your brain may say: ‘this person wants too much from me, I need to get away’. So one very practical thing you can always do is pause and ask: ‘What would a secure person do here?’
Loneliness elsewhere
When people talk about loneliness, they often assume it means you don’t have enough people in your life. But you can be surrounded by people and still feel lonely if those relationships leave you feeling excluded, ignored or disconnected.

What to do
- Build a community that works for your temperament and gives you regular, reliable moments of connection.
- You can still be kind to people while not treating them as someone who belongs in your inner circle.
- Explain what you need. Sometimes people simply don’t realise how you are experiencing them.
- Check in with people: does this person actually feel that I’m reliable? Do they experience me as predictable? That’s the only way that you can start to become more secure.

Do some foods leave
you feeling hungry rather than satiated? Experts say there are…
Foods that leave you hungrier
A bowl of cereal and glass of orange juice
More refined cereals are digested quickly, and fruit juice, whilst one of your five-a-day, contains less fibre than whole fruit. This might mean you find yourself hungry again within 1-2 hours of eating this breakfast.


Swap the orange juice for a whole orange, the cereal for oats and milk or serve it with Greek yoghurt or a boiled egg. This would increase the fibre and protein content; two nutrients strongly linked with fullness.
Foods that leave you hungrier

These pastries are made primarily from refined flour and butter, and are relatively low in protein and fibre.
Toast and jam


Shop-bought packs can contain a lot of white rice, which is digested quickly, and the protein content is often modest.
Foods that leave you hungrier

Vegetable soup
On its own, it is often very low in protein and calories, so hunger can return quickly.
Unless it’s loaded with veggies, it’s probably pretty low in fibre.


Liquids are generally less filling as they require little chewing which may not trigger satiety signals.
Foods that leave you hungrier

Snack bars
They are ideal for a quick pick-me-up, but if reducing hunger is what you’re after, it’d be better to swap it out.
Low-fat yoghurt
A full-fat plain Greek yoghurt with berries and seeds tends to be much more filling due to the protein, fat and fibre.


On an empty stomach, it can actually increase your appetite.
What to eat instead
Instead of thinking about avoiding foods, think about what you can add to them.
- Add beans, lentils or shredded chicken to your vegetable soup and pasta.
- Thicken your smoothies with Greek yoghurt, chia seeds and oats.
- Apple slices with peanut butter, yogurt with berries and hummus with oat biscuits are better snack options than a pre-made snack bar.
- Have alcohol alongside a balanced meal containing protein and fibre.
How to age well
without pain
Will Harlow, a physiotherapist
for the over-50s and author of Independence for Life, shares
the key signs you’re ageing
badly – and what to do about it.

How to know
Ageing well is maintaining the ability to do what you want you want for as long as you want without needing help. Everyone is talking about longevity but what’s the point in living longer if the last decade is painful and you’re [totally] reliant on people?”

The signs to look out for

- The most obvious early warning sign of bad ageing is pain says Harlow.
- Another is losing confidence in doing daily tasks, which can quickly lead to a lack of independence.
- One call Harlow often receives is people calling after having a fall and struggling to get up.
How to age without pain

Not just stopping
When people retire, they often put their feet up and stop. Your body really is use it or lose it.
Throughout our entire lives, Harlow says we need between seven and nine hours of sleep.


Social isolation
The lack of connection can increase the risk of premature death by
as much as 29 per cent.
Strength training
It really is the proxy for
overall independence.
The more muscle mass you have, the less chance of heart disease, diabetes, falls and even anxiety, depression and dementia.

The brain can be linked to muscle mass too, Harlow says. It’s not just about being able to lift things. It gives you more energy, better sleep and you’ll look and feel better.
How to age without pain
Daily habits
Do short bursts of exercise, between 30 and 60 seconds, in otherwise dead time during the day.


Stretch in bed
Take joints through a full range of motion for five minutes to loosen it before getting up.
Don’t crash diet

How to age without pain

Harlow advises 1.6 grams per kilogram of body weight to stop muscle loss alongside resistance training.
Don’t wait
Harlow finds that many patients put off making a change to their lifestyle until their lives are consumed by pain.


For most people, it’s about reducing the number of times per week you’re exercising, not reducing intensity.
The three ageing tests to do
- Lie completely flat on the floor and get back up to a standing position using any technique. This should take less than 10 seconds.
See how many times you can sit on the chair and stand back up again in 30 seconds. Men should be aiming for more than 14 times and women 12.
The single-leg stand, which involves standing on one leg and balancing for 10 seconds. Everyone should be able to do that and for those under 65, Harlow asks them to do it with their eyes closed.
Despite the job market hiring fewer entry-level roles, employers are still looking for grads…
But you should be prepared to keep an open mind.
We’ve compiled the sectors hiring graduate roles, what degree is required, and what they pay.

The degrees to choose for a career
Hiring in the UK could
finally be on the up
47%
of employers offered entry-level
positions from July.
That is up nearly 15 per cent from the same period last year.
700,000
But graduate unemployment rose to six per cent in 2025 and 700,000 jobless graduates were claiming benefits.
Finance and insurance
- Around 42 per cent of UK finance and insurance employers say they will be open to graduate roles this summer.
- Business loan company Portman Finance Group has taken on 50 graduates over the past four years.

Portman graduates start on £36,000 for the two-year programme and the education you need to apply is a minimum “ABB” of A-levels, and a 2:1 or above university degree. But not in a specific subject.

Trade and logistics
What makes it particularly rewarding is that there’s always something to learn.
Nearly half (47 per cent) of trade and logistics companies will be giving graduates a go this year.
Salaries start at £30,000 with an uncapped bonus, rising to £50,000 plus a company car as a senior account partner.
Public sector, health
and social services
46 per cent of public sector, health and social services organisations are also ready to take graduates, according to a survey by Manpower.

- For example, Police Now runs a graduate programme into policing. They recruit graduates from any degree field, as long as they achieve a 2:2 or above. Starting salaries range from £31,164 to £42,210 depending on location and rising each year.
Can we treat guests without blowing our budget?
According to Waitrose, a dinner party revival is underway led by younger people trying to reduce the cost of getting together.

Always have bread
People will feast on the
ELLA RISBRIDGER, AUTHOR OF THE KITCHEN BOOK – GOOD FOOD FOR EVERY DAY
bread, and then need less fish/steak/expensive whatever. All small plates restaurants know this: this is why the first thing on the menu is always artisan bread and butter.

Use vegetables as centrepieces


Add pantry items
Graham’s recipes include a braised cabbage with a preserved lemon sauce, a roast cauliflower with saffron, and harrisa roast carrots with mango labneh.
How to host on a budget

Improve the everyday
Guests will always appreciate a stellar interpretation of the ordinary. Think lasagna or curry.
Cooking dinner for your guests is spoiling them – you’re being generous with your time, your effort, and your home. So don’t feel the need to go overboard elsewhere.


Ask for help
Ask friends to bring a contribution, be it a nibble or a pudding.
Big platter energy
[Presentation] can be the key to elevating something . Spaghetti and tomato sauce suddenly looks like a feast when tumbled on a lovely big plate, dressed with olive oil and parmesan and placed in the middle of the table.
Food writer and editor Eleanor Steafel

How to host on a budget
Taco party
Have one expensive filling, like shredded chicken, and two cheaper options, like refried beans, says Ella Risbridger.


Shop-bought ice cream is so easily zhuzhed up with the help of handy toppings, says Eleanor Steafel.
Intrigued, we set off on a 10-day journey along the first section, through Lazio. Against the grain, we slip out past the Roman Forum and Colosseum, smudging our fingers over centuries-old pilgrim graffiti at the Porta San Sebastiano. The city – and the tourist tide – loosens.
Soon we amble beneath Roman pines, pass crumbling mausoleums, our feet tracing chariot grooves worn deep into the paving stones. Navigating the site of Jesus’ fabled encounter with St Peter, marked by the Church of Domine Quo Vadis, just beyond the old Roman city walls, we find the catacombs of some of the earliest Christians and popes.
We sense deep-time in the slow descent from road to path, mire to meadow. We’re on the 2,000-year-old Via Appia Antica, the “Queen of Roads”, once the great southern artery of the Roman Empire. Pilgrims passed this way centuries before Santiago de Compostela on their way to the Holy Land. One was the anonymous “Bordeaux Pilgrim”, whose journey in AD 333-334 inspired the revival of the VFS in 2019 by the European Association of the Via Francigena Ways.

The scenes feel drawn from Homeric myth. The town of Castel Gandolfo clings to the forested rim of an extinct volcano, its bowl filled with the glistening Lake Albano. Here, opposite Pope Leo XIV’s palatial summer retreat, we sit down for a cappuccino and cornetto al cioccolato – a chocolate-filled pastry – with local Fabio Casentini.
“Lazio has a big problem: Roma,” he tells us. We are a stone’s throw from crowded Rome, but visitors tend to overlook the less prosperous wider region, which misses out on vital tourist income, he laments.
As we walk on, forest trails frame volcanic lakes scented with pine and wild fennel, and we pause in pastel-coloured Nemi for wild strawberries and cream, sharing terraces with modern Romans escaping the heat. Beyond the Alban Hills, the land opens out: the Lepini Mountains, the vast Pontine Plain and, in the distance, Mount Circeo – the mythical lair of Circe, Odysseus’ enchantress.

The towns of Cori and Sermoneta feel like vestiges of medieval pilgrimage. Threaded through hillsides of vines, olives, kiwi and apricot trees, they display what locals call stratificazione – layers of the archaic, Roman, Renaissance and modern, like a delectable lasagne of history.
In Cori, Lucia Millone – part of the Gruppo dei Dodici – spots us arriving with our backpacks a mile off. We meet her for an auburn sunset at the temple of Hercules, where she gathers the few other pilgrims passing through – a handful of Belgians celebrating a 50th birthday – for a supper of pinsa (a local style of pizza), cold meats and cheeses at her favourite trattoria.
“Ten years ago, I met pilgrims twice a year,” she tells me. They come more frequently now, with Lucia hosting when she can, and she’s hoping the route can help revive left-behind Lazio. “In little Cori, meeting people from all over the world is an infinite resource,” she says.

Her passion for the VFS is uplifting, carrying our tired legs through the mindful rhythm of the hills four days in, which gradually quietens everything else and draws us closer. We hit the coast at Terracina, overlooked by its Temple of Apollo, with traces of the Via Appia running through the old forum, and join the locals in passeggiata – an evening stroll along the seaside promenade.
Unlike the Camino’s vast albergue network, accommodation here is simpler: affordable homestays with shared kitchens. Yet, dangling my undies from a perilously placed clothesline above the bustle of the old town feels strangely immersive in a way I’ve never experienced on the Camino.
In the solitude of myrtle forest and limestone shelves overlooking Lago di Fondi, the silence is broken only by a solitary “Buon Cammino” from a local farmer. It lands with an authenticity that’s sometimes diluted on the crowded Spanish trails.
During our final stages, the mountains close in as we trace remains of Roman, Renaissance and Napoleonic roads, passing sanctuaries of the classical gods and the fortress of Itri guarding the penultimate mountain pass. From here, we reach a coastal crescendo at Gaeta, where we’re joined by veteran Canadian pilgrims Dan and Lea (aged 70 and 69, respectively), who have now walked 10 Caminos de Santiago.

“The massification of the Camino is pushing people to look for alternatives”, reflects Lea. As an introvert, she appreciates the lack of crowds on the VFS – even if she misses the sense of community – and believes its history and culture set it apart.
The descent into Gaeta is dramatic. Karst scree cascades into the Bay of Formia and the old maritime citadel stands sentinel over the Tyrrhenian Sea. On the boardwalk, we help ourselves to a tiella – a fisherman’s pastry of tomato, olive oil and octopus – as the light dies over the old town.
Reflecting on our journey, part of me hopes the Via Francigena nel Sud remains just rough enough around the edges. Better infrastructure would help the route grow, but it’s the solitude and authenticity that make it special.
Where to stay
Aura Medieval House in Sermoneta is a typical homestay along the route; shared and private rooms with communal kitchen and living space; private rooms from £85.
In Gaeta, Altavilla has private doubles with a view from £94.
More information
Gruppo dei Dodici offers assistance and accommodation bookings along the VFS in Lazio.
UK-based Pilgrims to Rome offers planning assistance and “pilgrim passport” stamp books.
“Testimonium” certificates are available at Monte Sant’Angelo, Brindisi, Santa Maria di Leuca and Rome for those who have walked a minimum of 100km.
Ciccerone’s Walking the Via Francigena Pilgrim Route – Part 4 (2025) is the first dedicated English-language guide to the VFS.







