The Lake District is lovely. So lovely, in fact, that it’s easy to forget Cumbria has 200 miles of coast tucked behind its fells. Standing on the beach at Silecroft, that seemed a shame. A wild-feeling emptiness of pebbles and sand stretched away in both directions, while the broad, bulky mass of Black Combe Fell glowered behind.

There’s little to Silecroft village itself – just a few houses back into what’s long been quiet farming country, no shop, one pub. But it’s an enticing scene nonetheless.

I made the journey beyond the lakes to see what I’d been missing. Again and again I asked locals about tourism. The answer was always the same: not many come, they said, but those who do love it. For more see visitlakedistrict.com

The Essentials: How to get there and where to stay

Nearest stations: Silecroft train station has connections to Carlisle, Barrow-in-Furness and Lancaster.

Two miles out of the village, right below Black Combe, the Wayside & Whisky Barn is a treat. The main building dates from the 17th century, all exposed stones and low beams. There are four exceptionally comfy B&B rooms, plus a self-catering cottage. Owner Emiko cooked me a tasty veg curry, then I joined her in the bar, which is well-stocked – as the name suggests – with 100-plus whiskies. Tasting experiences can be booked, and Emiko is great at offering recommendations – I spent the evening sipping a smooth and fruity Nikka Single Malt Miyagikyo. Doubles from £145, B&B.

Up to five campervans and motorhomes can stay overnight at Silecroft Beach Car Park. Facilities include sea views and 24-hour toilets. From £10; booking (via Whicham Parish Council) required.

In Ravenglass, two train stops north of Silecroft, the Pennington Hotel has an accessible double from £107.

Day one: Where to start the day

If you wake feeling energetic, head up Black Combe. Alfred Wainwright ignored this 600-metre massif in his classic Lakeland guides, but Black Combe is a satisfying giant – a tough but straightforward hike that, on a clear day, affords views to Scotland, Wales and the Isle of Man. The summit can be reached as an out-and-back or an eight-mile loop.

If you get hungry, branch off into Bootle to reach the Byre Cafe for wraps, roasts and panoramic views (open Tuesday-Sunday). Bootle has a train station too.

Don’t miss

Sitting on the estuary of three rivers, Ravenglass is the only coastal village within the Lake District National Park. Delve deeper into the nearby fells on La’al Ratty, the 150-year-old narrow-gauge railway that puffs delightfully down Eskdale. I opted to ride in one of the open-top carriages, for a full blast of Lakeland air, hopping off at Dalegarth for a walk along the crystal-clear Esk River. Even if you don’t take the train, visit the heritage station and museum.

The Pennington family has lived at Muncaster Castle for 800 years and now open their fine pile and glorious grounds to visitors. Ash the great grey owl almost caressed my head during the owl and hawk centre’s flying displays, while in the weapons hall I had a go at shooting arrows and flinging axes. The castle is a one-mile walk from Ravenglass station.

Best place for a sundowner 

This west-facing, big-sky seashore delivers spectacular sunsets – any patch of beach will do. Or opt for a pint of Ennerdale Blonde outside the Inn at Ravenglass.

B

The Pennington Hotel in Ravenglass serves a good selection of dishes, from seafood platters to Cumbrian pork belly. Or hop two more train stops north to Seascale for a beachside supper at Salt Fish & Chips (open Wednesday-Sunday).

Day two: B

You won’t see many people at Silecroft Beach, but you might see some magnificent creatures. Cumbrian Heavy Horses offers thrilling, surf-kicking beach rides on its Suffolk Punch, Scottish Clydesdale and English Shire horses (from £275pp).

Best place for lunch

The Sunset Cafe sits right by Silecroft Beach. With shutters designed by Turner Prize winner Martin Boyce, their triangular motif echoing boat sails, this sustainably built spot opened in 2024 and has become the hub of local life. Portions are large and delicious, from fat toasties (I didn’t need to eat again all day after mine) to homemade quiche.

Best walks

Take a gentle stroll. The new King Charles III England Coast Path has improved access, including three miles of new clifftop trail between Silecroft and Annaside. Alternatively, try a six-mile walk to Millom station via Hodbarrow, an old mine turned RSPB reserve.

Tucked behind Black Combe, Swinside is one of the country’s best-preserved stone circle – probably older than Stonehenge – however, it sees few visitors. When I arrived, there was one man taking photos; he said I’d just missed two Californian druids. The shortest walk is from Crag Hall, though it’s possible to plot a longer loop from Green Road station.

Best place for a final treat 

Linger on Haverigg sea wall for a super sunset over the swirling waters of the Duddon estuary and out to sea.