I have always found that Capri rewards curiosity. The trick is to resist treating it as a day trip. Once the last ferries leave, the lanes empty, the light softens and an even chicer side of the island is revealed. If you really want to experience Capri without the crowds, visit in spring or early autumn, when the weather is often at its most inviting.

For a true taste of la dolce vita, JK Place Capri is an iconic address. Perched above the sea near Marina Grande, this intimate 22-room hotel feels more like an exceptionally stylish private house than a conventional five-star property. Individually designed rooms, impeccably dressed by Michele Bonan, open onto sea or garden views. Our suite had a magnificent four-poster canopy bed, with balconies overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea. The panoramic terrace is the most elegant spot to soak up the views of the picturesque port, while JKitchen is the sort of place where breakfast can happily turn into a long lunch or dinner. The fabulous pool feels like a secret hideaway, set within the lush gardens.

There is also a spa with Biologique Recherche treatments, a hammam and Mediterranean sauna. The welcoming and fun team make this a stay to remember. JK Place is the dream for those who want the glamour of Capri without feeling caught up in its busy centre.

The hotel is also within walking distance of the famed Da Paolino, where dinner is served under the lemon trees. The likes of Tom Cruise, Beyoncé and the Kardashians are fans. A funicular ride away, the newest address worth knowing is Villa Helios Capri, part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World. With just nine suites, this boutique villa is another welcome antidote to the crowds. It sits steps from the Piazzetta, yet behind its doors the atmosphere is remarkably calm, with Mediterranean gardens, a rooftop pool and a fantastic al fresco restaurant overlooking the island.

The interiors are a joy, with a healthy dose of colour and pattern, offering a different spin on contemporary Capri style. Dynamic young manager Salvatore Francesco Palumbo, who comes from a long line of Capri hospitality connoisseurs, is always on hand for local tips. This is the place to book if you want to be close to the action but retreat from it whenever you choose. It is also perfectly positioned for local shopping. Pick up a pair of bespoke handmade sandals at Da Costanzo, browse the printed dresses at Eco Capri and stop at Carthusia perfumes on Via Matteotti to see the island fragrance being made in its workshop. La Bagattella is a hub of colourful ceramics.

Mare by Casa Tua at Marina Piccola is the new beach-club to be seen at. The seaside escape of Hotel La Palma, it combines sunbeds with a relaxed restaurant focused on coastal Italian cooking. Go early, settle in for the day and let lunch take its time. This is a feast for seafood lovers but leave room for a very generous delizia al limone.

Back in town, The Grill at Punta Tragara is a favourite for sweeping views of Capri Bay. Set beside the pool, it serves grilled specialities beneath a pretty pergola, with music and DJs after dark. Home-made tagliolini pasta with lemon and butter sauce is a must, followed by a perfectly grilled lobster and rum-soaked baba with vanilla custard.

For a different pace altogether, head uphill to Anacapri. Jumeirah Capri Palace sits 300 metres above sea level and makes a strong base for exploring this quieter side of the island. Its rooms and suites are filled with art, including works by Keith Haring, Giorgio de Chirico and Mimmo Paladino, while the White Museum brings an ever-changing contemporary edge. Designer Patricia Urquiola has worked her magic on the hotel’s signature Mariorita suites. The stunning mosaic-lined swimming pool is the perfect spot to soak up panoramic views while Capri Medical Spa offers the patented Leg School treatment, which will leave you feeling energised.

There is also L’Olivo, the island restaurant with two Michelin stars, and the star-studded Il Riccio beside the Blue Grotto. Neighbouring a-Ma-Re Capri serves the most delicious Neapolitan style pizza and inventive cocktails alongside sparkling sea views. That’s amore.

Rooms at JK Place Capri from £1,000, jkplaces.com slh.com jumeirah.com